The Surf Check

A wartime ‘pill box’ in Suffolk, UK succumbs to coastal erosion. The WWII bunker held back the Third Reich, but it was no match for coastal erosion.

Photo Courtesy, Barry Hughes

Last week scientists from around the world descended on South Carolina’s, Myrtle Beach to discuss coastal erosion. Scientific American reports the impetus of the event was a study conducted by the US Geological Survey (USGS) and the South Carolina Sea Grant Consortium. In the study researchers researchers looked at whether or not South Carolina should begin re-sanding portions of its receding beaches. The results of the study were presented to the scientists as part of the International Geological Program Annual Conference.

The study showed that South Carolina’s coastline is receding at a rate of up to thirty centimeters  (11.8 inches) per year. While losing a foot of coastline into the ocean doesn’t seem overly concerning; the long term effects are staggering. On average South Carolina can expect to lose almost one hundred feet of coastline over the next century.

This is certainly not an isolated phenomenon. Coastlines all over the world recede each year.  Oceanography in the 21st Century, an online text book reports that, “Average erosion rates are 6 feet per year along the Gulf [of Mexico] and 2 to 3 feet per year along the Atlantic.”

According to the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA), “17 percent of the contiguous U.S. land area [the coast] is home to more than half of the nation’s population.”  Meaning receding coastlines have the potential to affect a huge number of Americans. And, Scientific American sites the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency’s estimate “that between 80 and 90 percent of the sandy beaches along America’s coastlines have been eroding for decades.”

Yet, coastal erosion remains invisible to most beach goers. This may be a result of how beach erosion occurs. Research indicates that it is almost never the case that a beach will consistently loses a foot or two of soil each year. Rather a portion of coastline will remain relatively stable for forty or fifty years. Then all the ‘deferred’ erosion will take place over a short period of time.

Oceanography in the 21st Century says, “Beach erosion is episodic. Most erosion occurs over a short period, sometimes in hours during a hurricane such as Katrina, sometimes during a season as in California during an El Niño event [as is this winter].”

Photos before and after Hurricane Katrina illustrate rapid coastal erosion in Louisiana.

Photo Courtesy, USGS

This has special significance here, the home of The Surf Check blog, in San Luis Obispo, Calf. Nearby homes worth millions of dollars are built atop bluffs overlooking Shell Beach. The owners build these beautiful homes with the expectation that the home and the land will be there forever. But, given the episodic nature of erosion, based on averages how long can they really expect that bluff to be there? How permanent are their homes and investments with the onset of El Niño conditions this winter?

All smiles, Caitlin Beyer catches a mello left.

This week The Surf Check is doing things a little differently. Kyle Neddenriep spoke with Caitlin Beyer, a surfer and ocean conservationist. She has some interesting insight on just how people treat the ocean. So, listen up.

If the plug-in for this page is unavailable or off-line Caitlin’s interview can be heard or downloaded here.

National Weather Service Radar Shows heavy rain over much of California.

The first rain of the fall season is always a source of renewal for California’s rain-starved hillsides, but heavy rains resulting in storm water run-off can have serious water quality consequences. Tuesday morning saw California’s first substantial rain of the season. According to the National Weather Service, as of Tuesday afternoon several inches of rain has already fallen on the California coast, and more rain is expected in the next twenty-four hours.

However, this rainy season in particular poses a greater risk to California oceans. Portions of Southern California that experienced summer wildfires are likely to deposit more mud and sediment than usual. And the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Association, NOAA, has reported ocean temperature oscillations consistent with El Niño.

“El Niño” or Southern Oscillation is part of a complex ocean cycle that manifests itself in unusually warm ocean temperatures. The science behind El Niño is rather complex, but typically it signals an unusually wet winter for California.

The additional rainfall expected throughout California will, like most all rainfall, eventually make its way back to the ocean. Water that falls on urban or agricultural areas – as is much of California – becomes contaminated with debris and fertilizers; it’s then carried back into the ocean. This causes spikes in  bacteria levels, posing ocean health and water safety concerns. Most California countys recommend no contact with ocean water for seventy-two hours after substantial rainfall. This information and additional health advisories for local San Luis Obispo County beaches is available here.

This year California’s summer wildfire areas are also expected to negatively impact water quality. The AP reports that, “the U.S. Geological Survey recently warned of massive debris flows near the areas burned in September.” The same article also explains, “Debris flows occur because the ground in recently burned areas has little ability to absorb rain, which instantly runs off, carrying ash, mud, boulders and vegetation.”

Trash floats in the Schuylkill River, Philadelphia, PA. Trash like this accumulates in waterways in urban areas all over California, before floating into the ocean.

Courtesy of, thebigdurian, at flickr, labeled for reuse.

The first rain of the year also deposits into the ocean that has slowly built-up over the summer. This is particularly true in urban areas. Amy Powell with an ABC News affiliate in Los Angeles described what she saw during last winter’s rainy season.

“It’s a disturbing sight: Styrofoam cups, cans, and other trash floating alongside wildlife in the Long Beach Marina. Rainfall washes debris into storm drains and creeks that feed into the L.A. River. The river dumps the garbage in Long Beach, where some of it eventually flows into the ocean.”

Powell reports that after a heavy rain, workers will collect between 125-150 tons of debris as it washes onto beaches. It will be interesting to see El Niño conditions and hillside erosion brought on by summer wildfires will effect water quality this winter.

Local surfer Brian Reilly prepares to paddle out at Pismo Pier.

Pismo Beach was recently given a “D” grade with respect to water quality by the Heal the Bay organization. The organization monitors hundreds of California beaches and issues them grades based on water quality. While all other San Luis Obispo County beaches received “A’s” Pismo Beach was issued one of the lowest grades in the state. This is not a new development as water quality issues have plagued Pismo for a number of years. This begs the question, what is it about Pismo in particular that makes for poor water quality conditions?

A likely answer may be a result of Pismo Beach’s relative fame compared to most Central California coastline. Pismo receives more visitors and not surprisingly has a more substantial infrastructure. Pismo boasts a 1,370 foot pier, which attracts tourists and sea birds alike. It’s often speculated that these birds, that choose to roost on the pier, my have something to do with the diminished water quality. Among the five different locations at Pismo Beach were water quality test occurs, fifty feet south of the pier consistently reports the greatest water quality hazards. A good deal of urban development also exists in Pismo, suggesting the issues could stem from storm water runoff and drainage.

Speculation as to the water quality issues may soon become a thing of the past. A current multi-year study is now underway to pinpoint the cause of the heightened bacteria levels. The study, funded by the California Bureau of Investigation, is making use of DNA samples to positively identify issues having the greatest impact on water quality. Current water quality advisories at San Luis Obispo County beaches can be found here.

Sea birds at Pismo

Greater water quality issues may present themselves at all California beaches with more recent budget news. California, facing huge budget deficits, has been forced to cut programs to save the state money. Last year, Gov. Arnold Schwarzenegger made use of a line item veto that cut, “critical beach water quality monitoring programs used by counties to fund the collection and processing of ocean water samples as well as posting of signage at beaches to notify the public of potential health risks,” according to Heal the Bay’s annual Summer Beach Report, the organization that issued Pismo its “D” grade. The veto cut more than a million dollars from state beach water quality testing.

Budget cuts to County Health Departments have forced many to forego regular water sample testing. In San Diego County regular water quality testing has been abandon completely. Leaving sewage treatment plants, and organizations like Heal the Bay, the publics only protection from potentially dangerous water conditions. Budget cuts are understandably difficult, but as we continue to impact our oceans its important we resume regular water quality testing to ensure public safety.